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John Lobb shoemakers is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The line combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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